Baba Marta

Baba Marta or Granny March Day is celebrated on March 1.  It is yet another ritual that marks the end of winter and beginning of spring.  Here in Bulgaria, martinitsi, or red and white yarns are exchanged.  There are hundreds of sellers in public places and one can buy from very simple to very elaborate martinitsi to exchange with friends.  Some of Carol's students gave her some and even a shop keeper of a store we frequent gave us one. One legend says that you wear the martinitsi until you see a tree in bloom - another says is must be a fruit tree in bloom - and another says you wear it until you see a stork.  The display in the town plaza was in honor of this tradition.

Lots of fun and different rituals to learn about.  Having fun!

Veliko Turnovo and Independence Day

We rented a car and drove to a lovely city about 3 hours from here.  At least, it should have taken about 3 hours and ended up taking about 6.  The Google Maps app on the phone went a little crazy and routed us a weird way and then the road we were supposed to take was closed.  We had to back track a mile or so and then take a very small curvy road to our destination.  Oh well, another adventure.

We met Isabel and John for dinner, (she is a fellow Fulbrighter), and then walked to a spot where we watched a light show at the Fortress.  Very impressive!  This was Bulgarian Independence Day or Liberation Day.  Seems that Bulgaria was liberated a number of times over the years.

 

The next morning was rainy so Carol got some work done and when the rain abated we set out to find the artisan shopping street.  There were lots of fun little shops and Carol found a copper pot she really liked.  Here she is with the craftsman himself.

The next day we set out to see the fortress.  It was very impressive.  That spot occupied from the fourth millennium BC.  The second kingdom fell in 1393 and the fortress was reduced to rubble.  You can see the foundation and a few areas have been restored.

There was a huge monument that we could see from our hotel room. 

 I took the foot bridge across to see it up close.

Bulgarian Buddy

 A hill close to our house called Liberator's Hill has a towering statue on the top.  The monument is a replica of a Russian soldier who helped liberate Bulgaria from the Turks in the late 1800's.  There are lots of paths and steps to the top and great views along the way.  I have been up three times - two by myself and once with Carol.  All three times, I met this very friendly Bulgarian man who was descending the hill as I was ascending.  We met in almost the same spot each time - really weird.  He and I have chatted each time although he does not know a single English word and my only Bulgarian word is "davishonay" or "goodbye."  I found out that he is 71 years old and climbs to the top twice a day.  He is very talkative - although I have no idea what he is saying for the most part.  Today when I met him - I think he asked me if I was working here and I said no - my wife was.  He had met Carol a few days ago.  He smiled and pointed to the imaginary Carol and made the universal sign for very pretty.  He was with another guy today so I got my phone out and took a selfie of the three of us.

The guy I met three times is the short fellow in the center.  I suppose I will run into him again - I think he asked if I wanted to go for a coffee - but who knows.  I will keep you posted.